Live in a small apartment for long enough and you could end up a hoarder.
It happens so gradually you hardly pay attention, until one day you wake up and notice that you're five junk piles away from starring in your own version of "Grey Gardens."
Take it from someone who'd rather do almost any activity before cleaning - this scenario has never been entirely out of the question in our house.
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But when our son Leo started crawling several weeks ago, my husband, Santino, and I knew we would need to make changes. And fast. Anything within Leo's reach needed to be moved, donated or discarded - starting with our bookshelves, the very ones that hold my collection of nearly 200 cookbooks.
This would be no easy task.
However, embracing any excuse for some healthy competition, Santino and I decided that we would turn it into a game. We'd cook our way through the books we deemed worthy and pare down in the process. The books that didn't make the cut would be donated. We'd have childproofed the house and put about a month's worth of dinner on the table.
Game on.
My cookbook collection is composed of classics I accumulated during culinary school; gifts I received for birthdays, showers and our wedding; and some I've written about at The Chronicle. It's all added up to a motley crew of food-themed books.
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There's just one problem.
"You don't use any of these," Santino said, as we stood in front of the shelves surveying the task ahead.
"Yeah," I replied, "but I collect them. They're here if I need inspiration." As a recipe developer, I'm always looking for ideas.
However, like many cooks of my generation, I often turn to the Internet first, and the books wear a nice jacket of dust.
"You have an entire book devoted to chicken salad," he complained. "And you don't even eat the stuff."
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He was right - the chicken salad book was the first to make its way into the giveaway pile.
Housekeeping
Before we got into the nitty-gritty of the contest, we did a little housekeeping. We began by pulling a few out of the competition - those that should stay regardless. "The Joy of Cooking," "La Repertoire de La Cuisine" and "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" were among them - volumes that were passed on to me by my late grandmother and belong in any cook's kitchen.
Also given a bye were those written by friends and colleagues, including Tara Duggan's "The Working Cook" and baking books by Flo Braker - and keepsakes we found on trips (we haven't touched "Provencal Cooking" since we picked it up on our honeymoon, but sometimes sentimentality beats practicality).
Once those were earmarked, we each chose 15 for the giveaway pile, no questions asked (well, maybe just a few; I know this stuff better than Santino). For the most part, though, it was open season.
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Joining my chicken salad were other one-subject books I purchased years ago during a Borders' sale. They were $4.99 each and I was influenced by the price. There's a reason they were so cheap.
Next, we each chose 10 cookbooks from the remaining lot. We'd cook one recipe per book. That recipe had to be either indicative of the book (like a decadent chocolate brownie recipe from Alice Medrich's "Bittersweet") or something we'd never think to search for online.
Interest sparked
In Deborah Madison's "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," for example, I could have chosen from dozens of enticing-sounding vegetable-based main courses. It was an egg and cheese toast sauteed in wine, however, that sparked my interest, because I'd never have invented it myself. Score one for the books.
We also made the rule that in order for a book to be worthy of our top 10, we had to want to try at least 12 recipes from the book. Obviously, we didn't have that kind of time, but if you can page through a book and earmark a dozen dishes, it can be considered a good collection of recipes.
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That's not as simple as it sounds.
Santino's initial pick was one called "The Southern Italian Table" - a natural for him, as he spent the first three years of his life in Calabria. But after flipping through the book, there was nothing calling out to him, so onto the giveaway pile it went.
For the better part of the next month, a home-cooked meal was on the table each night. It was refreshing to find recipes that had been pre-tested time and again - of the 20 we made, surprisingly few were busts. And what began as spring cleaning turned quickly into a lesson on what makes a worthy cookbook.
Most of our one-subject books were out - precious as the book was, if we were dying for creme brulee, we could probably find about 6,000 recipes for it online. It was the compilations that proved most valuable. Our favorites (see sidebars for our top 10 lists) included collections from America's Test Kitchen, Real Simple magazine and Martha Stewart's Everyday Food. These are chosen by food editors who cull through hundreds of recipes to find the best ones, so it's only natural that many of these are winners. Of course, ahem, we also love "The San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook" - both volumes - but those went into our initial saves.
Favorite dishes
At the end of the month, we picked our two favorite dishes from each pile and came away with a quick stir-fry using easy-to-find ingredients, a straightforward roast chicken, crisp oven fries and dark, fudgy brownies.
We were surprised at the simplicity of the winners. It's all too easy these days to get carried away with substitutions and adaptations when following recipes, but we were delighted to find such basic staples in our search - when followed exactly, the accompanying recipes are easy to prepare and taste delicious; we'll undoubtedly turn to them again and again.
The Internet may be quick and convenient, but many of our books have proved even more valuable. And don't feel too badly about our barren shelves. As soon as books are no longer a danger to Leo, I'm guessing we'll have no trouble replacing the ones we've tossed. Just don't call us hoarders.
-- Recipes, cookbook picks on H6 & H7
Santino's Top 10
(In no particular order, but top two highlighted:)
-- The Art of Simple Food, by Alice Waters (Clarkson Potter, 2007, 406 pages hardcover)
-- Light & Healthy 2010, by the editors of America's Test Kitchen (America's Test Kitchen, 2010, 302 pages hardcover)
Thirty Minute Pasta, by Giuliano Hazan (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2009, 176 pages hardcover)
Country Egg, City Egg, by Gayle Pirie and John Clark (Pirie & Clark, 2000, 118 pages hardcover)
Lidia Cooks From the Heart of Italy, by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali (Alfred A. Knopf, 2009, 432 pages hardcover)
Dinner Tonight: Done! from the editors of Real Simple magazine (Real Simple, 2011, 368 pages paperback)
How to Cook Everything: The Basics, by Mark Bittman (Wiley, 2003, 224 pages hardcover)
The Art of Mexican Cooking, by Diana Kennedy (Crown Publishing Group, 1989, 544 pages hardcover)
Maida Heatter's Cookies, by Maida Heatter (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 1997, 288 pages hardcover)
Butter Sugar Flour Eggs, by Gale Gand, Rick Tramonto and Julia Moskin (Crown Publishing Group, 1999, 288 pages hardcover)
Amanda's Top 10
(In no particular order, but top two highlighted):
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, by Marcella Hazan (Alfred A. Knopf, 1992, 690 pages hardcover)
-- Fresh Flavor Fast, by Everyday Food, from the Kitchens of Martha Stewart Living (Clarkson Potter, 2010, 384 pages paperback)
The Instant Cook, by Donna Hay (Fourth Estate, 2004, 192 pages hardcover)
Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books, 1997, 742 pages hardcover)
Mediterranean Fresh, by Joyce Goldstein (W.W. Norton & Co., 2008, 351 pages hardcover)
Heirloom Beans, by Steve Sando and Vanessa Barrington (Chronicle Books, 2008,180 pages paperback)
Rick Stein's Complete Seafood, by Rick Stein (Ten Speed Press, 2008, 264 pages paperback)
Barefoot Contessa Family Style, by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, 2002, 240 pages hardcover)
The Last Course, by Claudia Fleming (Random House, 2001, 320 pages hardcover)
-- Bittersweet, by Alice Medrich (Artisan, 2003, 378 pages hardcover)
Crunchy Oven Fries
Serves 4
Adapted from "Light & Healthy 2010," by the Editors of America's Test Kitchen. The authors prefer the texture of unpeeled potatoes (we agree), but feel free to peel them if you'd like. A nonstick baking sheet will encourage even browning, but we used a regular pan and they still browned perfectly.
- 1 1/2 pounds russet potatoes (about 3 medium), scrubbed and cut lengthwise into 10 to 12 even wedges
- 1/4 cup + 1 teaspoon canola oil
- -- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions: Adjust an oven rack to the lowest position and preheat the oven to 475°. Place the potatoes in a large bowl, cover with hot tap water, and let sit for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, coat a large rimmed nonstick baking sheet with 1/4 cup of the oil and sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper.
Drain the potatoes and pat dry thoroughly with paper towels. Toss the dried potatoes with the remaining teaspoon oil (you may want a little bit more if you're not using a nonstick pan), arrange in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet, and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 5 minutes; remove the foil and continue to bake until the bottoms of the potatoes are golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes longer, rotating the baking sheet halfway through.
Scrape the potatoes loose from the pan with a metal spatula, and use tongs to flip each wedge, keeping the potatoes in a single layer. Continue to bake until the potatoes are golden brown and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes longer, rotating the baking sheet halfway through.
Drain the potatoes briefly on paper towels, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
Per serving: 330 calories, 3 g protein, 35 g carbohydrate, 21 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 11 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.
Roast Chicken
Serves 4
Adapted from "The Art of Simple Food," by Alice Waters. There are plenty of variations on this classic chicken, but we recommend using both garlic and herbs under the skin for added flavor - you can also stuff the cavity with more herbs if desired. Waters recommends seasoning 1 or 2 days in advance, if possible - it definitely makes a difference in the flavor of the meat.
- 1 chicken, 3 1/2 to 4 pounds
- -- Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
- -- A few sprigs of thyme, savory or rosemary
- -- 2-3 garlic cloves, sliced thick
Instructions: Remove the giblets from the cavity of the chicken. Inside the chicken there are frequently large pads of fat. Pull these out and discard them. Tuck the wing tips up and under to keep them from burning. Season with salt and fresh-ground pepper over the skin and inside the cavity, 1 or 2 days in advance, if possible. Cover loosely and refrigerate.
At least 1 hour before cooking, remove the chicken and place in a lightly oiled pan, breast side up. Put a few tender herb sprigs under the skin of the breast and thighs, then stick the slices of garlic gently underneath the skin as well.
Preheat the oven to 400°. Roast the chicken for 20 minutes. Turn it breast side down, and roast for another 20 minutes. Turn breast side up again and roast until done, another 10 to 20 minutes. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.
If desired, skim the fat from the pan, add some chicken stock and scrape up the brown bits to turn it into a jus or gravy for passing at the table.
Per serving: 453 calories, 52 g protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 26 g fat (7 g saturated), 166 mg cholesterol, 155 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.
Classic Unsweetened-Chocolate Brownies
Makes 16 large or 25 smaller brownies
From "Bittersweet," by Alice Medrich. Use the best quality chocolate you can find for better results in these brownies.
- 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 1 1/4 cups sugar
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 2 cold large eggs
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (optional)
Instructions: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°. Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.
Place the chocolate and butter in a medium heatproof bowl set in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir frequently until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth; it should be hot enough that you want to remove your finger fairly quickly after dipping it in to test.
Remove the bowl from the skillet. Stir in the sugar, vanilla and salt with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs, one at a time, stirring until the first one is incorporated before adding the next. Stir in the flour and beat with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until the batter is smooth, glossy and beginning to come away from the sides of the bowl, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the nuts, if using. Scrape the batter into the lined pan and smooth to even it.
Bake for 20 minutes, or until the brownies just begin to pull away from the sides of the pan. The surface of the brownies will look dry, but a toothpick inserted in the center will come out quite gooey.
Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath: Fill a roasting pan or large baking pan with ice cubes and about 3/4 inch of water.
When the brownies are ready, remove the pan from the oven and immediately set it in the ice bath. Take care not to splash water on the brownies. Let the brownies cool.
Remove the pan from the ice bath, lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 16 or 25 squares.
Per small brownie: 110 calories, 1 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (4 g saturated), 27 mg cholesterol, 28 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Chicken, Edamame & Noodle Stir-Fry
Serves 4
From "Fresh Flavor Fast," by Everyday Food, from the kitchens of Martha Stewart Living. Look for udon in the Asian foods section of most grocery stores - if you can't find them, linguine snapped in half works fine.
- -- Coarse salt
- 8 ounces fresh udon
- 2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (6 to 8 ounces each), cut crosswise into thin strips
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- -- Freshly ground pepper
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as safflower
- 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1/2 head napa cabbage (about 1/2 pound), thinly shredded
- 2 cups frozen shelled edamame
- 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
Instructions: Bring a pot of water to a boil; add a generous amount of salt. Cook the noodles according to package instructions. Drain, rinse under cold water, and drain again.
While the noodles are cooking, toss the chicken with the cornstarch; season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high. Working in two batches, cook the chicken until lightly browned and opaque throughout, tossing occasionally, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the skillet; add the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Add cabbage, and cook, stirring frequently, until tender, 2 to 4 minutes.
Add the edamame, vinegar, soy sauce, chicken and noodles; season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing, until the noodles and edamame are warmed through, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 449 calories, 33 g protein, 49 g carbohydrate, 12 g fat (1 g saturated), 49 mg cholesterol, 703 mg sodium, 6 g fiber.
E-mail Amanda Gold at agold@sfchronicle.com.
Amanda Gold has been a San Francisco Chronicle food writer since 2004. Currently, she writes a column called the Weeknight Dish, sharing quick and convenient recipes for busy cooks. In addition, Amanda writes other recipe feature stories and profiles, and reports on food trend stories. She also contributes to other sections of the paper. The Chronicle, she worked in the restaurant industry in both the front and back of the house, including a stint as a pastry cook at Kokkari Estiatorio. A graduate of the California Culinary Academy (Le Cordon Bleu), she also has a degree in journalism from the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
